Iris pallida absolute (CAS N° 8002-73-1)
Floral > Powdery Flowers > Orris Root > Fatty

Iris pallida absolute

Iris pallida Lam.
Synonyms : Iris pallidecaerulea Pers., 1805 // Iris X germanica subsp. pallida (Lam) O.Bolòs & Vigo

Iris pallida absolute (CAS N° 8002-73-1)

Company Ingredient Name ID Comments Naturality Certifications Purity Latin name Treated part Geographical origin MOQ
Quosentis logo
Beurre d'Iris 15 % d'Irones - 30 gr - Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient - - - - - -
MANE logo
ORRIS Butter (Essential oil) M_0040043 Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Naturel - - - - -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LANDES 15% IRONE E2512A Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Beurre Certifications : Kasher - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LANDES 10% IRONE E2514A Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Beurre Certifications : Kasher - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS 10% IRONE E2515 Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Beurre Certifications : Kasher Certifications : Halal - Iris pallida Lam. / Iris germanica L. Rhizome Asie, Europe, France, Maroc -
Biolandes logo
IRIS 70%/MPG E2445 Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Résinoide - Iris germanica L. Rhizome Maroc -
Biolandes logo
IRIS ENZYMATIC 20% IRONE F3507 Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Huile essentielle - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LANDES 20% IRONE E2511A Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Beurre Certifications : Kasher - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LANDES 68% IRONE E2468 Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Absolue Certifications : Kasher - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LANDES 8% IRONE E2513A Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Beurre Certifications : Kasher Certifications : Halal - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LANDES 80% IRONE E2464A Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Absolue Certifications : Kasher Certifications : Halal - Iris pallida Lam. Rhizome France -
Biolandes logo
IRIS LAVE F1523 Visit website Je me procure cet ingrédient Résinoide Certifications : Kasher - Iris germanica L. Rhizome Maroc -

Beurre d'Iris 15 % d'Irones - 30 gr

Certifications :

ORRIS Butter (Essential oil)

ID : M_0040043

Certifications :

IRIS LANDES 15% IRONE

ID : E2512A

France

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher

IRIS LANDES 10% IRONE

ID : E2514A

France

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher

IRIS 10% IRONE

ID : E2515

Asie, Europe, France, Maroc

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher Certifications : Halal

IRIS 70%/MPG

ID : E2445

Maroc

Certifications :

IRIS ENZYMATIC 20% IRONE

ID : F3507

France

Certifications :

IRIS LANDES 20% IRONE

ID : E2511A

France

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher

IRIS LANDES 68% IRONE

ID : E2468

France

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher

IRIS LANDES 8% IRONE

ID : E2513A

France

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher Certifications : Halal

IRIS LANDES 80% IRONE

ID : E2464A

France

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher Certifications : Halal

IRIS LAVE

ID : F1523

Maroc

Certifications : Certifications : Kasher

Information Générales

General Presentation

  • CAS N° : 8002-73-1

  • EINECS number : 285-368-2

  • FEMA number : 2829

  • Appearance : Whitish wax

  • Density :

  • Volatility : Heart/Base

  • Price Range : €€€€€

Physico-chemical properties

  • Optical rotation : Donnée indisponible

  • Vapor pressure : Donnée indisponible

  • Refractive Index @20°C : Donnée indisponible

  • Acid Value :

  • Flash Point :

Utilisation

Uses

Uses in perfumery :

Used in small quantities for sweet floral-violet notes but also with woody notes (sandalwood) and for green notes. Since 1850, the use of Iris Florentina declines in favour of Iris Pallida. Nowadays, Iris pallida is used more because its yield is better and its smell is more powdery and closer to violet. Since its introduction in perfumery with Vera Violeta- Roger & Gallet (1892), Iris has been the happiness of all perfumers. At once warm and dry, sensual and creamy, powdery and oily, its scent is unique. It can be found in many fragrances, and a large majority of niche ranges have an iris perfume. However, this scent is often reproduced because the price of Iris butter does not allow regular use.

Major Components :

  • Myristic Acid (60-65%)
  • cis-Irone-gamma (≈8%)
  • Lauric Acid (≈7%)
  • cis-Irone-alpha (≈6%)
  • Palmitic Acid (≈3%)

Map for Iris pallida absolute (CAS N° 8002-73-1)​

Photo credits: ScenTree SAS

Botanical name :

Iris pallida Lam.
Synonyms : Iris pallidecaerulea Pers., 1805 // Iris X germanica subsp. pallida (Lam) O.Bolòs & Vigo

Botanical profile :

The orris root belongs to a plant of the Iridaceae family, and of the genus Iris.

Chemotypes :

In perfumery, there are 2 main species of Iris:
Iris pallida, grown in Italy (Tuscany) primarily rich in cis-γ-irone, then cis-α-irone.
Iris germanica including the emblematic variety Iris germanica var. florentina (originally from Italy too), now cultivated in China, Morocco and India. It is mainly composed of cis-α-irone, followed by cis-γ-irone.
The difference between these two species is very simple: flowers are white for Iris florentina and blue for Iris pallida.

Extraction process :

The cultivation of Iris must be done on a well-drained rocky soil and requires a great sun exposure. The plant is grown for three years before its rhizome is harvested in January and February or July and August.
Today, iris harvesting is increasingly mechanized, allowing the rhizomes to be removed easily from the ground. After harvesting, iris rhizomes are trimmed and washed.
There are then several types of process before putting the rhizomes to dry. In some (rare) regions of the world such as Tuscany or a little in Morocco, the rhizomes are peeled and cleaned after harvesting (this is called ''white '' iris). This process is complex because it cannot be mechanized and must be done by hand. It does, however, result in a much better olfactory quality. The huge majority of global production does not undergo this process and is ''simply '' sliced mechanically (known as ''black '' iris).
Whatever the process, they are then left to dry in the sun for several days. At this stage, the rhizomes are still almost odorless. This drying is essential because it determines the degree of maturation of the rhizomes, an important factor in the rate of transformation of irone, itself a factor in the olfactory quality of the butter or Iris absolute.
Three more years of drying then follow, during which the rhizome synthesizes molecules called irones, chemically close to ionones. This step is crucial to obtain the olfactory quality of the root.
(A bacterial treatment can accelerate the maturation of the roots from three years to just a few days! However, the treatment has a negative impact on the olfactory quality of the root).

Rhizomes are then powdered and undergo molecular hydrodistillation (under 0.5 to 1.5 bar pressure and for about 15 hours), to obtain a Iris Butter (concrete) with a yield of about 0.2%. This butter can then undergo fractional distillation to obtain Iris Absolute with a yield of about 0.04% from the rhizomes. Iris powder can also be treated directly with volatile solvents to obtain Iris Resinoid with a yield of about 3 to 4%. These yields as well as the time required for production explain the cost of this raw material.

In terms of production, the concrete that is preferred, about 200kg are produced each year, containing about 10-20% irone, sold at approx. 10k€/Kg. Only a few kilos of Absolute d'Iris are produced, containing more than 60% irone, sold at approx. 50k€/Kg. Resinoid is not much produced.

Other comments :

The price of orris root butter (and absolute) depends greatly on its rate of Irone. This price is around 12 000 € / kg for butter and can go up to 40 000 € / kg for the absolute. It is historically one of the most expensive and most coveted raw material of perfumery.
Natural Irones (alpha-irone, beta, gamma) can be obtained from the butter or the absolute. The synthesis of these molecules is preferred for cost reasons.
The term ''iris '' means ''rainbow '' in Greek, illustrating the colour variety of the flowers found in this kind of plant.
The iris absolute can be favoured in a composition for its stability (it does not precipitate) and orris root butter for its price.
Between the 1970s and 2000, Iris crop has undergone a major crisis in terms of output volume. This led to a rarefaction of this product already considered noble. This crisis allowed the development of new production areas, almost non-existent until then, such as Morocco. Today, production has gradually returned to sufficient volumes to meet the needs of the perfumery industry, although Iris is still considered a premium product.
Orris is the iconic flower of Florence city so much that it appears on the city's coat of arms.

Stability :

Solubility issues in perfumes
Stable oil in perfumes and in diverse functional bases

Utilisation

Regulations & IFRA

Allergens :

This ingredient does not contain any allergen.

IFRA 51th :

This ingredient is not restricted for the 51th amendment

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