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General Presentation
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CAS N° : 68650-46-4
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EINECS number : 84649-93-4 / 92346-85-5
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FEMA number : 2169
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Appearance : Colorless liquid
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Density : 0,910 - 0,940 @20°C
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Volatility : Head/Heart
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Price Range : €€€€
Physico-chemical properties
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Optical rotation : Donnée indisponible
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Vapor pressure : Donnée indisponible
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Refractive Index @20°C : Donnée indisponible
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Acid Value :
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Flash Point :
Uses
Uses in perfumery :
Gives a minthy nuance or a blackcurrant note and depth to woody notes.
Major Components :
- Diosphenol (40-45%)
- Isomenthone (≈20%)
- D-Limonene (10-15%)
- Menthone® (≈10%)
- Eucalyptol (≈4%)
- Camphor
Photo credits: ScenTree SAS
Botanical name :
Agathosma betulina (Bergius) Pillans
Synonyms : Hartogia betulina P.J.Bergius // Barosma betulina Bartl. & H.L.Wendl.
Botanical profile :
Buchu is a plant of the Rutaceae family (like the orange tree or most citrus fruits for example) and the genus Agathosma.
Chemotypes :
Three major chemotypes of Agasthoma can be numbered : Agathosma Betulina, or buchu; Agathosma crenulata, buchu with oval leaves, also native to South Africa; long leaves buchu, Agathosma serratifolia, native to the Cape province. The majority of the plants from the genus Agathosma are originary from South Africa, but only buchu is used in perfumery.
Extraction process :
The buchu is a plant that can measure up to 2 meters tall, with small leaves of 20 mm amplitude and whose flowers are white to pinkish. The plant grows very fast but its cultivation tends to exceed its growth rate. Thus, measures have been taken in South Africa to perpetuate the crops.
Harvests take place from December to March. During flowering, the leaves are collected and dried in the shade (to prevent sunburn on the plants) before the steam distillation. The essential oil is collected in an essencier at the refrigerant outlet, by decantation.
The extraction yield is around 10 to 20%.
Other comments :
Its blackcurrant smell is due to the presence of flavonoids. Also note that it is not uncommon to see camphor, present in some chemotypes, crystallize at room temperature.
The production of buchu in 2018 was heavily impacted by the fires and the drought that affected South Africa. Prices rose rapidly but the crops were promising.
Stability :
The terpenes identified in this raw material can polymerize when they are oxidized
Regulations & IFRA
Allergens :
This ingredient does not contain any allergen.
IFRA 51th :
This ingredient is not restricted for the 51th amendment
