| Company | Ingredient Name | ID | Naturality | Purity | Latin name | Treated part | Geographical origin | Certifications | Comments | MOQ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Absolue de Mousse de chêne sans Atranol - 30 gr | - | - | - | - | - | - | more | - | |
|
OAKMOSS Absolute | M_0054371 | Naturel | - | - | - | - | more | - | |
|
CHENE MOUSSE | F0420 | Absolue | - | Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach. | Mousse | Macédoine, Maroc | more | - | |
|
|
CHENE MOUSSE | F0527 | Résinoide | - | Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach. | Mousse | Maroc | more | - | |
|
|
CHENE MOUSSE FAIBLE EN ATRANOL | F0724 | Absolue | - | Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach. | Mousse | Macédoine, Maroc | more | - | |
|
|
CHENE MOUSSE FAIBLE EN ATRANOL 50%/TEC | E0726 | Absolue | - | Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach. | Mousse | Macédoine, Maroc | more | - |
General Presentation
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CAS N° : : 9000-50-4
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EINECS number : 90028-68-5
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FEMA number : 2795
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Density :
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Optical rotation : Lorem Ipsum
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Allergens : Oak Moss Absolute is an allergenic ingredient alone
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Refractive Index @20°C : Lorem Ipsum
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Volatility : Base
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Price Range : €€€€
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Appearance : Brown paste
Uses
Other comments :
Botanically, we talk about lichen rather than moss. Lichens result from a symbiosis between a mushroom and an algae.
We also differentiate tree mosses and cedar mosses.
The use of oak moss tends to be replaced by Evernyl® or Oak Moss Olifak base, as this raw material is strongly regulated by the IFRA.
Stability :
Solubility issues in perfumes
Stable oil in perfumes and in diverse functional bases
Uses in perfumery :
Useful in fougere and chypre notes (with Bergamot EO, Cistus EO, Cistus Labdanum Absolute Green Patchouli EO and possibly Lavender EO) for a rich and warm addition.
Major Components :
- Evernic Acid (≈3%)
- Usnic Acid
- Formic Acid
- Small quantity of Vanillin
- Small quantity of Eucalyptol
Photo credits: ScenTree SAS
Botanique :
Oak moss is the moss of a tree belonging to the Parmeliacae family and the genus Evernia.
Chemotypes :
In perfumery, three types of lichen are used:
Evernia prunastri : Oak Moss Absolute
Evernia furfuracea : Tree Moss Absolute
Usnea longissima : Cedar Moss Absolute, which can be found in China and Tibet, but of a different botanical family.
Other species of the genus Evernia are also distinguished: Evernia divaricata, Evernia esorediosa and Evernia mesomorpha. These are not used in perfumery.
Extraction process :
The harvest is handmade in Yugoslavia for the most part. The mosses are piled in a truck specially used for the harvest and taken to the factory. The mosses are macerated in water at room temperature for one to three days, to moisten and soften the lichens, which are crushed afterwards. The extraction is done by three successive washes with a mixture of cyclohexane and isopropanol.
The concrete is obtained after removing the lichens and evaporating the extraction solvent. The absolute is obtained by extracting the concrete with alcohol. The concrete waxes are precipitated by a glazing with a temperature gradient from 140 °F to 32 °F.
The absolute yield is between 1.5 and 4%.
Part of the colour can be removed from the absolute by treatment with activated carbon, or almost completely by molecular distillation.
Geographic origin :
Data not available.
Regulations & IFRA
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IFRA 51th : This ingredient is restricted by IFRA
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Restriction type : RESTRICTION_SPECIFICATION
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Cause of restriction : DERMAL SENSITIZATION
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Amendment : 49
- Quantitative limit on the use :
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Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5A Cat.5B Cat.5C Cat.5D Cat.6 0,02 % 0,016 % 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,076 % 0,076 % 0,076 % 0,076 % 0,18 % Cat.7A Cat.7B Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10A Cat.10B Cat.11A Cat.11B Cat.12 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,032 % 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,1 % 0,1 % No Restriction
Comments :
For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products. To ensure that those remain below trace levels, the upper concentration levels have not been increased (compared its last publication in the Amendment 43 (2008)). In the presence of Treemoss extracts, the level of Oakmoss in the respective category has to be reduced accordingly, such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed the maximum permitted level in each category as listed in the table above. If the same fragrance mixture is intended to be used in more than one IFRA Category, then the most restrictive limitation (based on foreseen use concentrations and maximum permitted level) will apply. Oakmoss extracts must not contain added Treemoss, which is a source of resin acids. Traces of resin acids may be carried over to commercial qualities of Oakmoss in the manufacturing process. These traces must notexceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) of Dehydroabietic acid (DHA) in the extract. The concentration of resin acids in Oakmoss can be measured with an High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) Reverse Phase – Spectrofluorometry method. Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.
